Your RO system may be installed under a sink or in a basement. Do not install unit where it would be exposed to freezing temperatures. Connecting to an icemaker or other remote location can also be considered if a connection can be made without using more than 12" of tubing, otherwise a delivery pump may be needed. Farther runs can be attempted and a pump can be added later only if needed.
Open shipping carton, remove components and check that all parts are present.
All plumbing must be completed in accordance with state and local plumbing codes. Some municipalities may require installation by a licensed plumber. Check your local plumbing codes for more information.
If the sink has a sprayer, it may be disconnected for faucet installation. A pipe cap or plug will be necessary to seal the sprayer connection or sprayer can be left connected under the sink.
To make the faucet-mounting hole (if sprayer hole or other existing hole is not used), check below to make sure the drill will not interfere with anything below. A 2" flat surface is required, not exceeding 1-1/4" thickness.
The faucet should be positioned so it empties into the sink and the spout swivels freely for convenience. If the sink has a hole that can accommodate the RO faucet, no drilling is required. Proceed with mounting the faucet.
Precautions must be taken to penetrate the porcelain through to the metal base and prevent chipping or scratching.
Note: Air Gap Faucets are required by some municipalities. These faucets require a 1-1/4" hole in the sink rather than the 1/2" hole required by the standard faucet included with the RO system. To make a 1 1/4" hole to accommodate an air gap faucet requires special tools such as a chassis punch (stainless steel) or a Relton cutter (porcelain) if a large enough hole is not already available. Ask your local dealer for more information.
Disassemble hardware from the treaded shank. Chrome base plates and rubber washers slide up the shank to the faucet body.
Feed threaded shank through the sink hole and orient the faucet. From below sink, slide lock washer and hex nut over threaded shank and tighten with a wrench.
Note: It is best to have someone hold the faucet from above the sink to keep it from moving out of place. If this is not possible then tighten the hex nut until it is just slightly less than completely tight. Then turn the faucet base from above the sink, tightening it while orienting the faucet in the desired location.
The John Guest Angle Stop Valve provides a simple, easy connection between the angle stop (cold water shut-off) and the bottom of the riser tube. The Angle Stop Valve has built-in shut-off and provides the feed supply connection for the reverse osmosis system.
Installation procedure: (See Figure 2)
Most riser tubes that are used today are made of flexible material, either braided stainless steel, braided plastic or gray 3/8" plastic tubing. These flexible tubes are the easiest to use with the John Guest Angle Stop Valve because the 2" of additional space needed for the Faucet Adaptor can be easily accommodated by flexing this kind of riser. A shorter riser tube will not be needed.
If your riser tube is made of copper you will need to either make a bend in the copper to allow for the 2" of space needed for the John Guest Angle Stop Valve. If the copper tube is 3/8", bending it can be done easily by hand.
The John Guest Angle Stop Valve works with 3/8" shut-off valves and riser tubes. In some cases, older plumbing may use a larger size shut-off and riser tube. In this case, it would be necessary to either replace the old valve and riser tube with new 3/8" parts, or use an alternative connection to draw the water supply to the reverse osmosis system. Alternatives include self piercing valves, T fittings, and faucet adaptors that connect between the faucet and the top of the riser tube.
Please consult your distributor or an installation professional for additional assistance.
The self-piercing valve (not supplied), is designed for use with 3/8" to 1/2" OD copper or chrome plated copper tubing, CPVC, & flexible gray riser tubes at least 3/8" in size. It should not be used on ribbed, corrugated, reinforced plastic or steel braided tubing. Ask your local dealer what alternatives can be used in place of the self-piercing valve if one cannot be used under your sink.
Installation using copper tubing/pipe or tubing, CPVC, and gray flexible riser tubes: (See Figure 2-A)
Saddle valve installations with other metal pipe:
The Faucet Adaptor (not supplied) and Ball Valve (not supplied) will work with all standard kitchen faucets and provide a reliable connection to supply feed water to the RO unit.
Installation procedure: (See Figure 2-B)
Most riser tubes that are used today are made of flexible material, either braided stainless steel, braided plastic or gray 3/8" plastic tubing. These flexible tubes are the easiest to use with the Faucet Adaptor because the 2" of additional space needed for the Faucet Adaptor can be easily accommodated by flexing this kind of riser. A shorter riser tube will not be needed.
If your riser tube is made of copper you will need to either make a bend in the copper to allow for the 2" of space needed for the Faucet Adaptor. If the copper tube is 3/8", bending it can be done easily by hand.
If the copper riser tube is larger than 3/8" it is recommended that 2" be cut from the bottom of the riser to allow for the space needed. A copper tubing cutter is the ideal tool for making this cut although a hack saw can be used. If a cut is made, a new compression ring (not supplied) will need to be installed to make a new water tight connection with the riser tube and the angle stop shut-off valve.
A Drain Saddle is used to make a wastewater connection with the drain under the sink, which is designed to fit around a standard 1-1/2" OD drainpipe. The drain saddle valve should always be installed before (above) the p-trap and on a vertical or horizontal drain. Do not install the drain saddle near a garbage disposal to avoid clogging the drain line with debris.
For convenience on under sink installations it may be advisable to complete under sink tubing connections at this time.
Install RO membrane O-ring end first, carbon prefilter(s) and sediment pre filter in vertical mounted housings. Be sure RO Membrane is pushed into Membrane housing as far as it will go. It is recommended that filters and membranes be handled with clean or gloved hands.
The RO unit is normally mounted to the right or left sink cabinet sidewall, depending on where supply tank is to be located. Generally the unit is installed at the front of the cabinet and the tank at the rear.
To mount the unit, elevate it at least 2" off the floor, level it and mark the location of mounting holes needed. Drill hole for mounting screws and install screws allowing the mounting bracket slots to slip over them.
Note: If the cabinet sidewalls are not solid, unit may sit on the floor with screws used just to keep it against the cabinet in a vertical position.
Pre-filling the storage tank is recommended so there is sufficient pressure to check for leaks and water to flush the carbon post filter. To do this connect the feed line that will serve the RO unit directly to the bladder tank. A 3/8" x 1/4" reducer is provided for this purpose. Allow the water to fill the bladder until it stops. Close to tank valve, shut off the feed pressure, release the tube from the reducer and remove the reducer from the tank valve.
The supply tank should be placed under the counter or within 10 feet of the RO unit.
Note: Tanks are pre-pressurized with air at 7 psi.
With all components in place, complete final tubing connections with these guidelines:
The RO unit can be connected to any standard refrigerator icemaker or ice maker/water dispenser.
To complete this operation, connect a T with a shut off valve into the faucet tubing and route tubing to the refrigerator. (Hooking up to existing copper tubing is not recommended due to possible corrosion) Turn off icemaker inside freezer prior to turning off the existing tap water supply line to the refrigerator. Turn on the icemaker after the RO system has been drained several times and the tank has a full supply of water.
Icemaker lines are often run in the rafters of unfinished basements or finished basements with drop ceilings and then up to the fridge. If the basement has a hard ceiling, this won’t be an option and the line would have to be run through cabinets. In cases where a basement or cabinets connecting sink and fridge are not available, icemaker connections cannot be made.
Note: Before any service is performed on the RO system, turn off icemaker valve and icemaker unit. Turn back on only after RO system has been sanitized and flushed out.
Each year the filters in the system should be replaced. Usually the membrane can be replaced every other year, but the pre-filters and post-filter should be changed annually and in some cases more often.
Note: When installing a new membrane be sure to push the membrane into the housing as far as it will go. Each time the filters are replaced it is recommended that the system be sanitized.
After all filters are removed from the system, housings have been cleaned, tank is empty, and faucet is open...
RO Systems are highly sensitive to pressure and temperature. RO Membranes always perform better under higher pressures. They produce more water, faster, and of better quality with high pressure. The vast majority of problems with RO Systems are a result of low pressure. The effects of low pressure include water constantly running to the drain, slow water production and low water volume available in storage tank. In these cases where low pressure exists, a booster pump will be required.
On the following page is a table showing RO Membrane performance over a range of temperatures and pressures. Membranes are tested at 65 psi of pressure and temperature of 77 degrees. For each incremental change in either variable, membrane performance changes accordingly. Higher pressures increase production and vice versa.
To troubleshoot a poor performing RO System an accurate measure of the pressure and temperature of water will be required. This will require a pressure gauge to determine exactly what the water pressure is that is feeding the membrane. Descriptions of water pressure such as good, high or strong, unfortunately, are no help in diagnosing an RO System.
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Pressure Temperature Chart
|Temp °F||35 PSI||40 PSI||45 PSI||50 PSI||55 PSI||60 PSI||65 PSI||70 PSI||75 PSI||80 PSI||85 PSI||90 PSI||95 PSI||100 PSI||105 PSI||110 PSI|