Residential Reverse Osmosis System
Installation Instructions

Your Reverse Osmosis System has been tested to ensure it will operate correctly. The following periodic maintenance is recommended so your system will provide years of trouble-free service:

Prefilters (sediment) Once per year
Prefilter (carbon block) Once per year
RO Membrane Every 2-3 years
Post filter (carbon) Once per year

The following components make up your reverse osmosis system:

Prefilter (sediment) removes larger particles such as sand , silt, rust & scale.

Prefilter (carbon block) removes chlorine in the feed water to protect the RO membrane.

Reverse Osmosis Membrane reduces dissolved minerals, metals, and salts. During the process, harmful compounds are separated by the membrane and the reject water goes to the drain.

An activated carbon post-filter is provided for a final "polish" and to remove tastes, odors and to provide great tasting water.

Filter housings and RO module hold prefilters and membranes. A bracket is provided so they may be mounted typically under the sink.

Storage tank holds filtered water, ready for use.

Automatic shut-off valve senses when the storage tank is full and closes the water supply to conserve water.

The dedicated faucet is used to dispense RO water when needed.

Feed water saddle valve is connected to the cold water line to supply water to the RO system.

Waste water saddle valve is connected to the drain to remove reject water from the RO system

Tubing supplies feed and reject water.

Fittings are used for necessary tubing connections.

Tools

The following tools may be necessary, depending on each particular installation:

3/8" variable speed electric drill; 1/8" & 1/2" bits
1-1/4" porcelain hole cutter (if hole for RO water faucet is not provided) or
1-1/4" chassis punch (for stainless steel sinks) Center punch and hammer
1-1/4" wood bit
Concrete drill bits
Phillips head screw driver
Adjustable wrench
Teflon tape
Plastic tube cutter

System location

Your RO system maybe installed under a sink, in a basement or other location, depending on available space. Do not install unit where temperatures fall below freezing; otherwise, damage will result. Connection to an icemaker should also be considered for optimum performance.

Guidelines for component placement are as follows:

Faucet should be placed near the sink where drinking/cooking water is normally required. A 2" flat surface is required to mount faucet if an existing hole is not available. The thickness of the mounting surface should not exceed 1-1/4".

Storage Tank maybe placed where it is convenient, within ten feet of the faucet. Under the sink or in a nearby cabinet or in a nearby cabinet are excellent choices. If tank is located farther than ten feet from the faucet, use 1/2 tubing to reduce pressure drop. Full tanks may weigh more than thirty pounds, so a sturdy shelf is required./

RO unit may be mounted on either side of the sink, in a cabinet or basement, with nearby access to a portable, cold water line.

Feed water connection is accomplished with a self piercing feed water saddle valve. Locate this assembly as close to the RO unit as possible. Connect to a portable, cold water supply line only.

Drain connection is accomplished using a waste water saddle valve which is designed to fit around a standard 1-1/2" OD drain pipe. The drain saddle valve should always be installed above (before) the p-trap and on the vertical or horizontal tailpiece. Do not install the drain saddle near a garbage disposal; otherwise, plugging of the waste water line may occur.

Unit preparation

Open shipping carton, remove components and check that all parts are present.

Note: Hand tighten all fitting connections to be sure they are tight.

Installation Steps

All plumbing must be completed in accordance with state and local plumbing codes. Some municipalities may require installation by a local plumber. Check local authority prior to installation.

1. Faucet Installation

If the sink has a sprayer it may be disconnected for faucet installation. A pipe cap or plug will be necessary to seal the sprayer connection or sprayer can be left connected under the sink.

To make the faucet mounting hole (if sprayer hole is not used), check below to make sure the drill will not interfere with anything below. Center punch a small indent at the desired faucet location. (2" flat surface is required, not exceeding 1-1/4" thickness.) Drill the pilot hole for chassis punch and tighten nut to cut the desired hole size. Clean up sharp edges.

The faucet should be positioned so it empties into the sink and the spout swivels freely for convenience. If sink has a hole that can accommodate the RO faucet, no drilling is required. Proceed with mounting the faucet.

Porcelain, Enamel, Ceramic on Metal, or Cast Iron:

Precautions must be taken to penetrate the porcelain through to the metal base and prevent chipping or scratching.

Procedures:
1. Mark the center with center punch for the 1/4" pilot hole.
2. Carefully drill pilot hole with masonry pit through porcelain and stop when metal shows. (Use light pressure and slow speed)
3. Switch the bit to a standard metal cutting bit to continue to cut through the metal below the porcelain surface.
4. Continue to enlarge the pilot hole with larger masonry & metal cutting bits until the hole is 9/16"

Installation procedures for stainless steel sinks

Procedures
1. Mark the center with center punch for the 1/4" pilot hole.
2. Drill the pilot hole
3. Continue to enlarge hole with larger size drill bit until it is 9/16". 4. Clean up sharp edges

2. Mounting the Faucet

Disassemble hardware from the treaded nipple, except for chrome base plates and rubber washers. (Rubber washers may be replaced by a bead of plumbers putty for neater appearance)

Feed threaded nipple through the sink hole and orient the faucet. From below sink, slide lock washer over threaded nipple. Thread nut on threaded nipple and tighten to the bottom of the sink until secure.

Note: It is easier if another person can hold faucet above sink in desired position while nut is being tighten below.

3. Feed water valve and tubing installation

The saddle tapping valve which is supplied is designed for use with 3/8" to 1/2" OD soft copper supply tubing (plain or chromed) and rigid metal pipe. Do not use with flexible ribbed supply tubing which is too thin and requires special hardware.

Installation procedures using soft copper tubing:

1. Turn off cold water valve from under the sink or main water line valve for whole house.
2. Before installing saddle valve, make sure piercing lance does not protrude beyond rubber gasket.
3. Assemble saddle valve on copper tubing.
4. Turn handle clockwise to pierce soft copper tube until valve is firmly seated, (Valve is closed in this position)
5. Turn on water supply to pressure cold water line.
6. Snug nut/seal with wrench around valve stem.
7. Connect tubing to feed water valve using brass compression nut, stiffener insert and plastic sleeve.

Saddle valve installations with metal pipe:

1. Turn off cold water supply.
2. Drill 3/16" hole at desired location.
3. At this point, make sure piercing lance does not protrude beyond rubber gasket.
4. Assemble saddle valve on pipe, aligning with hole.
5. Turn saddle valve handle clockwise to close valve.
6. Tighten nut/seal around valve stem with wrench.
7. Connect tubing to feed water valve using brass compression nut, stiffener insert and plastic sleeve.
8. Turn on cold water supply.
9. To open valve, turn handle counterclockwise and check for leaks.

4. Drain saddle valve installation

Prior to proceeding it is important to inspect the condition of drain pipes to make sure they are not thin and frail.

Drain saddle valves are designed to be installed on standard 1-1/2" OD drain pipes. Install drain saddle valve above (before) p-trap. Never install a drain saddle valve close to the outlet of a garbage disposal or plugging of the RO drain line may result.

Procedures

1. Position threaded half of drain saddle valve at selected location and mark for the opening.
2. Drill 1/4" hole at mark through one side of pipe.
3. Position both halves of drain saddle on drain pipe so threaded opening lines with hole.
4. Secure drain saddle clamp on valve with bolts and nuts provided. (do not over tighten and make sure there is equal space between saddle halves on each side)

5. Initial tubing connections

For convenience on under sink installations it maybe advisable to complete under sink tubing connections at this time.

6. RO component installation

Install RO membrane, carbon pre filter and sediment pre filter in modules of RO unit. Refer to RO installation diagram.

7. RO unit installation

The RO unit is normally mounted to the right or left sink cabinet sidewall, depending on where supply tank is to be located. Generally the unit is installed at the front of the cabinet and the tank at the rear.

To mount the unit, elevate it at least 2" off the floor, level it and mark the location of mounting holes needed. Drill hole for mounting screws and install screws allowing the mounting bracket slots to slip over them.

Note: If the cabinet sidewalls are not solid, unit may sit on the floor with screws to keep it against the cabinet in a vertical position.

8. Pre-fill, sanitizing and supply tank placement

Pre-filling the storage tank is always recommended so there is sufficient pressure to check for leaks and sufficient water to flush the carbon post filter.

It is important to use a sanitizer (house hold bleach) so tubing, fittings, tank and the faucet will be safe to use upon start-up.

To pre-fill tank storage tank follow these directions:

1. Connect storage tank to feed water line.
2. Open feed water valve and valve on tank.
3. Allow to fill approximately three minutes.
4. Turn off feed water valve and tank valve.
5. Do not flush tank for approximately 15 minutes.

The supply tank should be placed under the counter or within 10 feet of the RO unit.

Note: Tanks are pre-pressurized at 7 psi.

9. Final tubing connections

With all components in place, complete final tubing connections with these guidelines:

1. Tubing should follow contour of the cabinets.
2. Cut tubing to desired length using square cuts and proper cutting devise.
3. Make no sharp bends.
4. Keep tubing from the RO unit to the tank and faucet as short as possible for good flow.

Icemaker hookup (optional)

The RO unit can be connected to any standard refrigerator ice maker or ice maker/water dispenser. (Do not connect to a commercial type bar ice maker)

To complete this operation, connect a tee with shut-off valve into the faucet tubing and route tubing to the refrigerator. (Hooking up to existing copper tubing is not recommended due to possible corrosion) Shut-off ice maker by lifting lever prior to turning off the existing tap water supply line to the refrigerator. Turn on the ice maker after the RO system has been drained several times and the tank has a full supply of water.

Note: Before any service is performed on the RO system, turn off ice maker valve and ice maker unit. Turn back on only after RO tank is full.

System start-up

Prior to start-up

1. Check all connections be sure they are secure.
2. Turn on feed water valve and check for leaks.
3. Open valve on storage tank and open faucet until a steady stream of water flows.
4. Close faucet and wait five minutes to see if leaks result.

Flushing system and checking operation

1. Open faucet handle and allow tank to completely drain of sanitizing solutions.

Do not use this water

Note: When tank is empty, faucet will steadily drip. This is the rate the RO system makes water.

2. With faucet handle in "open" position, measure the rate of the steady drip form spout. Use a graduated cylinder and watch with a second hand to calculate approximate production in gallons per day.

Note:
Milliliters per minute × 0.38 = GPD
Ounces per day × 11.2 = GPD

3. Proceed to check reject flow rate by disconnecting tubing at drain connection and measure flow as described above.

Note: Proper ratio should be 2.5 gallons of reject water to 1 part of product water, on average.

4. Close faucet and re-inspect system for leaks.

5. Allow system to process water for approximately 4 hours, at which point tank will be practically full.

6. Open faucet again and allow tank to empty for a second time.

Do not use this water

7. Wait another four hours to allow tank to re-fill.

Note: If no objectionable tastes are noticed after second tank draining, RO processed water is ready for use. Otherwise, drain tank and re-fill for a third time.

8. At this point supply line to ice maker connection (optional) may be opened.